The Truth About The LOC Method

The long-standing LOC method, and its more recent successor the LCO method, are moisture retention systems where you layer your hair with more than one product. The goal is to keep your hair moisturized for a longer time by slowing down how fast water evaporates from your hair. The methods get their name by combining the first letter of each product used in the layering.

L stands for Liquid (could be water or a leave-in conditioner)

O stands for Oil

C stands for Cream

For the longest time, many in the natural hair community swore by the LOC method. Is there truth to this claim? At first glance, the LOC method seems like a fool-proof formula for locking in moisture. After all, it follows the logic of layering products from lightest to heaviest right? And for many, this approach has yielded impressive results.

But here's where things get interesting: the LCO method challenges the traditional sequence by placing cream before oil. ‘Why’ you ask? Well, it all comes down to how our hair reacts with these products.

You see, oils and water don't mix (think Nicki and Cardi). Oils, being hydrophobic, naturally repel water. On the other hand, creams are made up of a mix of water and oil molecules, held together by special compounds called emulsifiers. These emulsifiers act like matchmakers, bringing the water and oil together to form a creamy mixture that can hydrate and nourish the hair.

With the LCO method, the idea is to apply a cream before the oil. This way, the cream can hydrate the hair while also incorporating the benefits of the oils. By doing this, you're essentially laying down a moisture-rich base for the oil to seal in, ensuring that both water and oil are effectively delivered to and retained in the hair shaft.

It’s also important to consider not only the order of application but also the type of oil used, especially when it comes to different hair porosities.

For those with High Porosity hair, where the cuticles are prone to being raised and losing moisture easily, sealing in hydration becomes a top priority. In this case, using a heavy oil after applying water or a hydrating cream can work wonders. The heavy oil helps to close up the raised cuticles and forms a protective barrier that prevents water from evaporating too quickly.

On the other hand, for those with Low Porosity hair, where the cuticles are tightly closed and can be resistant to absorbing moisture, a different approach is needed. Lighter oils, such as argan or grapeseed oil, are usually preferred in this case. These oils can penetrate the hair shaft more easily, providing much-needed hydration without weighing down the hair or causing buildup.

Now that you have a better understanding of the LOC and LCO methods and the chemistry behind hydration and the products involved, start choosing the moisturizing techniques that work best for you and your coils.